North Coventry Deck Installation is a deck building company based in North Coventry. As one of the finest deck contractors, we strive to deliver beautiful outdoor decks. We are fully licensed and insured to work in North Coventry. Our company prides itself on providing quality craftsmanship, excellent customer service, and building a personal relationship with our clients that continues even after your project is completed. Our company will work closely with you through every step of the design and construction process in order to create a customized outdoor living space that suits your needs. With our attention to detail, you can be assured that your project will be completed above and beyond your expectations.

composite decking installation

We are the professional North Coventry custom deck builder that you can reach out to for all of your deck building needs. You may have plans to renovate an existing deck or to build a new deck from the ground up in your yard. Whether you have the desire to construct a small, uncovered deck or an elaborate, multi-level deck with custom features, we can help you to bring your vision to life with remarkable results. We want to give you an outdoor space that adds value and function to your home.

Custom Deck Builder in North Coventry

patio deck installation

This guide explores how to prepare your deck or patio for the summer months. We'll look at techniques to easily clear your deck or patio surface. In no time you are going to have an backyard area for you to enjoy by yourself or with your friends. Given the wide array of decks and patios we will quickly examine both concrete or cement decks and patios as well as wood and timber decks and patios.

While maintaining your outdoor living areas and surfaces is one thing keeping the furniture you use in these areas equally maintained will ensure that you are able to fully enjoy these spaces throughout the entire year. Outdoor tables, chairs, and lawn chaises are built from materials that are usually tough enough to hold up against sunlight, rainwater, and the wind. Routinely, they require little more than regular hosing down. Particular care is essential, however, when staining, scratches, and gashes appear. Most of the time, cleaners and waxes designed for the treatment of automobiles, watercraft, and patios are applicable for use on outdoor pieces of furniture. At the close of the season, take care of outdoor furniture with canvas or cotton tarps to continue to keep them dust free and protected from moisture. Hold the furniture in a shed, a garage, or on a covered patio. Or, if it cannot be kept in a covered location, wrap it well in waterproof tarps intended for outdoor safe-keeping of furniture. Outdoor woven fabrics typically endure a chemical treatment method during manufacturing to improve stain and moisture prevention, regardless of whether they are manufactured from synthetic fibers, such as vinyl-coated polyester or acrylic, or from cotton blends.

Once a week, spray fabrics off to get rid of dust, filth, and body oils. To deep clean, scrub with a utility brush and a formula of mild soap and lukewarm water. Stay away from detergents and hot water, which can remove the protective coating off of outdoor fabrics. If fabrics are badly stained or mildewed, scrub with a solution of 0.5 cup oxygen bleach and 5 gallons of warm water. If the label says "machine-washable," place it in a washing machine filled with cold water and a dose of oxygen bleach. Agitate to mix and now let the cover sit overnight. Next, drain the water and spin, then launder the cover in cold water using mild soap. Bring it back to the frame, in the open position, to dry in the sun. Rinse regularly with a spray hose all through the outdoor season, or all year if you live in a warm climate or humid environment. If mildew is found, strip off the cover from the frame, if possible, and scrub away any mold. Place all outdoor cushions in a protected area to protect them from bad weather. If cushions become drenched, place them on end to speed up drying.

For both your cement and wood patios and decks we recommend a easy routine to take care of the surface and maintain cleanliness. Each week, sweep deck floors and thresholds with an outdoor push broom (or more frequently, if necessary) to remove leaves and other dirt. Dust rails and windowsills with a hand brush.

Consistently shovel your patio after snow. The heaviness of snow can deteriorate the deck and the excess water can deteriorate untreated wood. For your cement or concrete decks as water seeps through small cracks in the surface or under the edges around the perimeter it can expand and contract with freezing weather. This expansion and contraction can lead to cracks forming or pre-existing cracks becoming larger.

Over the course of the entire summer and the other seasons we suggest these steps for long-term preservation and care.

To wash a deck by hand, first sweep thoroughly and use an old saw blade or putty knife to get rid of any clutter wedged between the boards. Next, hose down the patio and clean it with a long-handled deck brush and a solution of all-purpose cleaner and water, running in strokes that run parallel to the grain of the panels. For hard spills, use a industrial patio brightener or oxalic acid, which lighten up run down, gray wood.

If you have a sizeable deck or porch, a power washer will save you time. This appliance uses high-pressured water to blast away soil, mildew, and some stains. However, power washers can open the pores in untreated wood surfaces, subjecting the surface to the elements and lessening the deck's life time. The power washing technique is a good way to maintain your cement decks, however if your cement or concrete deck is stained, it may eventually wear down this stain.

Awnings need to be sprayed regularly with a spray hose all through the outdoor season. Allow the awning to air-dry adequately after cleaning; always open awnings after rain to let them dry thoroughly. For a heavy cleaning, first rinse the awning, then use a handled brush to scrub in a solution of water and mild soap. Rinse again. Stow awnings off the ground to decrease the likelihood that they will turn out to be winter homes for rodents.

When the deck is clear, check for wobbly nails that have come unfastened over the wintertime. Remove them, and exchange with galvanized, all-purpose deck screws, which are less likely to come out of wood than nails are. Fill holes with wood filler, and sand smooth. Take care of any other repairs, along the lines of replacing a splintered or out of shape plank, before the harm worsens. In some cases it may be needed to use sanding paper to smooth down worn edges that become splintered. With cement and concrete patios and decks it is is recommended to utilize the services of a professional concrete general contractor. Using the wrong concrete or applying it in the incorrect method may only make the problem worse.

Various wood care solutions have a different gains for various wood surfaces, giving you the capacity to tailor-make a complete wood care process. This system begins the very first day and proceeds all through the life of your wood. Here are some solutions you may consider.

New wood treatment will shield brand-new wood from the problems of sun and rainfall. Deck cleaning agent and brightener restore life into filthy and graying patios. Stain/Finish removers are more potent than a wood cleaner, this actually gets below and lifts off old sealers, finishes, and grime that have accumulated on your patio over time. Clear wood preservative with UV protection revives the beauty of your weathered deck while defending against the elements with a clear finish. External stain is usually solid or semi-transparent. Deep penetrating formula repels rain.

One per year (or when drops of water no longer bead on the surface but are absorbed into the planks), coat the patio with a water-based waterproofing sealant. Choose a sealant that contains a UV protector to help block the sun's damaging ultraviolet rays. There are additional concrete or cement sealants that can be used on your concrete decks and patios. These can help with eliminating the problems we talked about earlier when the freezing weather comes.

The final thing that we want to point out is weeding and maintaining any vegetation that is around your deck or patio. Just as you do with your home's foundation maintenance the same methods can apply to your deck or patio. With wooden decks they most often use cement or concrete anchored support posts. These can move overtime altering your deck or patio surface accordingly. Maintaing proper water flow off of and around the perimeter of your deck or patio is a key step. Continually removing any weeds that pop up through your cement or concrete patio is a must throughout the entire year. If you live in a heavily wooded lot or area, it is important to weed out unwanted plants routinely as some of these weeds may actually be newly sprouted trees. These root structures can become quickly entrenched and hard to permanently remove.

Please keep in mind that there are many more thorough and informative guides if you simply want to refinish or restain your deck. In our guide we hope you gained a more well-rounded insight as to what methods and year-round strategies you can employ to maintain your decks and patios throughout the entire year. Through these steps and tips you should be able to lengthen the life and quality of your decks and patios and their stains or finishes.

Tips on Choosing the Best Deck Materials

patio deck installation

The first stage to planking the deck is to fit the false deck to the frame. The false deck is usually made from 1mm plywood and will need to be slightly adjusted for the various bulkhead notches if supplied with your kit. Mark the centre line on the deck from bow to stern ensuring that it is lined up squarely with the false keel and that the bulkheads fit through the notches on the false deck. This fit should be neither snug nor loose. The false deck will allow the deck planking to fit easier and lie flatter and more evenly.

The false deck is cambered from the midline to both the starboard and port sides. The amount of camber is usually shown on the waterline drawing that comes with the kit the dimensions of which should be marked by the builder on the bulkheads as a guide. If the plans do not indicate the camber, the general rule is ¼" rise to every foot. Thus in our 1:48 example from the last article where the breadth (beam) is 56 feet, the rise would be 13/32" or 10mm from the centre line to the edge of either the port side or starboard side. Make sure that the sheer plan (length) matches the body plan (depth) and remember that deck curvatures do not always follow the same curvature of the hull sheer exactly. This is because the stern of the ship sits lower in the water than the bow. The level mid point between the stern and the bow is about ¾ of the length of the ship between the stern and the bow. If the plans do not match make adjustments or else fittings like cannons will not sit properly on the deck (cannons should be pointing slightly down). You should also measure the distance from the waterline to the top of the false deck to ensure accuracy with the hull. If need be you can soak the false deck in warm water or warm water with ammonia in order to get the rough curvature that you need. Remember when soaking wood, you should only use warm water and leave the piece in the water for no more than 15 minutes. This way the cells of the wood will be pliable but not broken down.

Once you are happy with the camber of the false deck, make sure that it fits snuggly up to the false keel adjacent to the sternpost or rudder post. Using wood glue and pins adhere the false deck to the bulkheads. Once the false deck is firmly in place, mark and cut out the openings previously marked for the masts, hatches, gratings and companion ways. It is better to do this after the false deck is in place because of the camber of the deck.

Now you are ready to apply planking to the false deck. The decks were usually light coloured. The width of the plank for our 18th Century model is between 8 inches and 14 inches scaled to on average 5.82mm however not all deck planks on a ship are of equal width so any width between 4.23mm and 7.41mm would be acceptable. The thickness of the planking varied from deck to deck. The lower decks were up to 4" thick (2.12mm) and the upper decks 3" thick (1.59mm.) Remember that the length of the board should not exceed 5.5" (140mm).

The deck strakes (planks) were joggled, especially at the rounded edges close to the bow. The end of the plank equals 1/3 of the plank width and the length of the snipe is equal to not less than twice the width of the plank. As far as plank shift is concerned, there are three, four and for French ship, five, plank shifts. As an example, this means that there would be four planks shifted equally between the first and fifth planks in a four plank shift arrangement. It's helpful to create a cutting jig to ensure that all of the planks are cut evenly and at the correct length. You can also use this jig for the nail pattern.

On a full size ship a gap of 3/8 " wide (.2mm scaled) was left between the deck planks both lengthwise and at the butt ends to suit the caulking iron. Decks were nailed down next and then caulked with oakum (a mixture of animal hair, sphagnum moss or hemp and tar) and the seam was paid with pitch. There are a number of ways so simulate the tar lines. Depending on the method you use, tar lines should be applied prior to fastening the deck planks onto the false deck.

o Black thread can be glued between the boards.

o Another method is to darken the edges with a marking pen, which you would have to test to be sure the pen does not bleed into the wood and give you a fuzzy line.

o Another method is to use a soft black lead pencil and darken the edges. With the use of a pencil the caulk lines will not be perfectly even and will tend to fade in and out. This does give a realistic appearance.

o By standing the planks on edge and gluing them to a sheet of black paper then cutting them apart will give you a perfectly even caulk seam.

o To produce a subtle appearance simply space the planks ever so slightly apart and allow the glue to ooze up between the planks. You can leave the gap and allow it to fill in with whatever finish (stain, urethane or paint) you intend on using or wipe the seams with a mixture of colored glue, or fill the seams with a graphite paste mixture (used for leak proofing gasket joints). It is a little difficult to maintain an even gap between the planking because as the planks are glued to the hull they require clamping which may cause the planks to shift.

o You can also use black grout as long as your planking material is hardwood.

The nailing or tree nailing pattern depends on the width of the plank The traditional method for adding treenails is to use bamboo strips or hardwood dowels pulled through a draw plate to form the nail. Alternatives would be to use the bristles from paint brushes, whisk brooms, push brooms, wall paper brushes or anything with bristles. Materials composed of copper, brass or silver wire or plastic rods available in many sizes and can be applied by hand or spring loaded nailing tools. Once you form the tree nails, drill holes in the deck planks in the pattern you choose then glue the nails in place. Once complete, give the deck surface a light sanding.

Once you are happy with the deck, it should be sealed either with paint, stain or urethane. If you use urethane, remember to dilute the first two coats by 30% with a thinner (70/30 mix) and apply the third coat full strength.

Pennsylvania Deck Installation